Tuesday, April 21, 2015

From Akyaka Take a Tour of Ancient Kaunos, The Dalyan Delta and Iztuzu

Considering a holiday in Turkey? At Villa Vali our services go much further than being a hotel holiday complex: we aim to ensure that you have every opportunity to explore Akyaka, the local area and the region.  
Even though Akyaka is a wonderful place to just sit and do nothing, on occasions the urge may hit you to go explore further afield. .The personnel at Villa Vali will help you discover the hidden Akyaka and the magic of the Mugla region. Consider day trips found on :

Kaunos was a city of ancient Caria and in Anatolia, a few km west of the modern town of Dalyan, Muğla Province, Turkey.
The Calbys river (now known as the Dalyan river) was the border between Caria and Lycia. Initially Kaunos was a separate state; then it became a part of Caria and later still of Lycia.
Kaunos was an important sea port, the history of which is supposed to date back till the 10th century BC. Because of the formation of İztuzu Beach and the silting of the former Bay of Dalyan (from approx. 200 BC onwards), Kaunos is now located about 8 km from the coast. The city had two ports, the southern port at the southeast of Küçük Kale and the inner port at its northwest (the present Sülüklü Göl, Lake of the Leeches). The southern port was used from the foundation of the city till roughly the end of the Hellenistic era, after which it became inaccessible due to its drying out. The inner or trade port could be closed by chains. The latter was used till the late days of Kaunos, but due to the silting of the delta and the ports, Kaunos had by then long lost its important function as a trade port. After Caria had been captured by Turkish tribes and the serious malaria epidemic of the 15th century AD, Kaunos was completely abandoned.


From Akyaka, take the Dalaman road for approximately 50km. You will see Dalyan signposted on a brown sign off to your right. Follow this somewhat low grade road for about 10km, and you are in the centre of Dalyan. Total distance about 60km, allow no more than 1 hour.
The Carian Rock Tombs
Visit the ancient sites of the area by boat. Choose whether you want to start your journey in Dalyan or Koycegiz.

Up the cliff edge are a number of stunning 4th century Carian rock tombs, of various sizes, and in various states of repair. The tombs are are spectacular, and almost look like a family of temples cut into the rocks. You may well find that you take many many photos here, as the view just seems to get better and better as the boat makes its slow way past. 


Kaunos
Shortly after the tombs, the boat will dock at what seems to be the middle of nowhere. This is actually the start of the path up to Kaunos (and I mean up – about 10 minutes serious uphill walking, don’t try to push a buggy). Don’t be put off, the walk is well worth it, and there is a café at the entrance to Kaunos, where you can have a drink, eat an ice cream, use the toilets, and admire the stunning view over Kaunos, with the delta beyond.

The system here is that the boatman will expect to drop you off at the entrance and then pick you up some time later at the exit. So this is decision time – he will ask what time you want picking up at the exit. Don’t worry about getting lost, it is a fairly straightforward walk down through Kaunos. The bare minimum would be an hour, 2 hours would allow some exploration and relaxation, 3 hours would probably not be excessive, depending on how interested you are in exploring ruins. As there is a café (and more toilets!) at the exit, you can always relax here in the shade and wait for the boat if you are early.
Looking out over Kaunos, there are great views of the harbour – and it is very easy to see how it has all silted up, and why what was once a thriving port slowly died.
The earliest settlement here was in the 9th century BC. Although it was originally Carian, it was very closely allied with Xanthos (Lycian), and over the centuries was subject to different rules and different influences, including Greek and Roman.
Although the site is not as spectacular as Ephesus or Aphrodisias, it is still fascinating. And unlike the 2 more famous towns, digging takes place here every August, so it is constantly getting more and more exposed, and in the height of the season you can actually watch (from very close up) some of the archaeology taking place. Interestingly, most Turkish sites appear to have an affinity with a certain country, from where the archaeology is driven. For example, Hierapolis is dug primarily by Italian universities. Kaunos appears to have been adopted by German archaeologists.

The first main structure is of course the theatre. Dating from the 2nd century BC, this is in good condition, and it is very pleasant to sit here, and imagine the scene some 2000 years ago. The view is also stunning. (As an aside – theatres are used to calculate the population of ancient cities – the rule of thumb is that the population of a city was approximately 10 times the capacity of the local theatre).
Other buildings that sit around the top part of the site include a Byzantine church and Roman baths.

Once you have wandered around this plateau at the top, then start on the path down. This will take you to a temple, and an agora, amongst other intriguing half extant structures – like many Turkish sites, it is very frustrating that excavation and restoration does not proceed at a quicker pace, and that our interests do not necessarily coincide with that of the archaeologists.
 

 

The upper part of the walk is on the original paved streets, which gives you a wonderful feeling, you are walking the exact same paving stones as people did 2000 years ago.
One downside of Kaunos is that it is not particularly well signed – so try if possible to get a guidebook and / or map, else you will spend half your time there trying to work out what things were, which can be very frustrating.
Iztuzu (Turtle) Beach


This is the last stop on the extended tour. It is really only famous for the turtles that nest there, which of course you have no chance of seeing – you may see their tracks in June and July if you are very lucky. Other than that, it is incredibly windy, which also makes the sea very choppy – quick visit if you must, and then away.

Villa Vali is a small family run holiday complex in the small Turkish village of Akyaka. The holiday complex consists of five properties and a choice of two, three and four bedroom villas, apartments and studios that share two swimming poolsand communal gardens and “al fresco” dining . The holiday homes offered by Villa Vali are fully furnished, spacious and well equipped.

 The Villa Vali holiday homes are set in beautiful relaxing gardens and embrace views of the the sea, the magnificent Sakar Mountain plus citrus and olive groves. Villa Vali is ideally situated and is just a ten minute walk from a sandy beach, the quaint village of Akyaka and a selection of riverside restaurants.


Getting There
The two obvious ways to get around are to join an organised trip, or to hire a car.
Organised Trips
There are a number of companies in Akyaka that run these, (see elsewhere on this site) or your hotel / villa owner etc will be happy to help. This is probably the cheapest method of getting around, and also takes the stress out of the journey. Against this, most of (certainly the longer) trips leave very early in the morning, some are even overnight, and they may insist on taking in other places on the journey that may not be to your liking.
Hiring a Car
Hiring a car in Turkey is not as cheap as in many other Mediterranean resorts, and you may be shocked to find that petrol is even more expensive than in England (it is one of the main ways that the Turkish Government raise tax revenues). However, hiring a car for at least some of your holiday is well worthwhile, and enables you to do far more exploring, both locally and at greater distances, than you would otherwise manage – as well as allowing you to choose your routes and timings to suit you. (See elsewhere on Akyaka.com, or other web sites, or ask around when you arrive).
Driving in Turkey is not as horrific as some guidebooks would have you believe. The roads are relatively traffic free, and there is nearly always an overtaking lane to use (depending on which lane is travelling uphill at the time!) Most road signs are fairly obvious, and even the extensive road improvement schemes rarely cause any significant delay. Do though be aware that because of the amount of up and down and around bits (other than along the coast road, most of the sites are inland and hence ‘over the mountains’) most journeys will take longer than you anticipate based solely on distance. You probably won’t average much more than about 75km per hour.
There are many roadside services, ranging from European style petrol stations, (most of which take credit cards) through to little ‘shacks’ that sell most of the usual refreshments, obviously cash only.
And of course look out for the stuffed sheep sellers – lay bys full of stuffed sheep, which no one ever seems to buy, and which no Turk has ever been able to explain!

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